Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Top things to do & see 

Find a hammock on Canouan

Canouan’s rustic beaches — outfitted with comfy solo-, double- and triple-person hammocks — unleash instant decompression. The sleepy, chic isle of 1,200 has fewer oceanside bungalows than it does ex-pat Italians who now make up the majority of the populace, keeping things decidedly low density. With such constituents come palates accustomed to high standards. The rustic island imports an impressive array of Italian, French and other European gourmet goods. Burn off the patés, cheeses and foie gras by traversing Mount Royal, the island's highest point at 900 feet, to witness panoramic views of all the Grenadines plus nearby St. Lucia.

Head to Tobago Cays

Launch from Canouan for the Tobago Cays, a mini archipelago of five uninhabited islands within the greater island chain. Skim the biodiverse Salt Whistle Bay aboard Captain Yannis catamarans for up close and personal jaunts that reach Gilligan’s Island-style empty, remote beaches. Disembark around Baradal Island to glide with the schools of sea turtles that don’t object to humans joining their underwater gangs.

Discover the mystique of Mustique

The private yet visitable (with permission by the homeowner owned company, the Mustique Company), lush and storied Mustique is a paradise of the most manicured order. Island attitude lives by a strict regimen: Detoxify by day, debauch come night. (David Bowie and Iman, Sir Paul McCartney and Prince William and Princess Kate Middleton unwind here.) Beach access off Cotton House (one of only two hotels other than private residences available by personal invitation or for rent) boasts long stretching sandbars and calm waters, ideal for stand-up paddle boarding and observing the comforting imperfections revealed by relaxed, casually dressed celebrities and royals. Firefly is the other hotel on the island.

Botanic Gardens

On St. Vincent, just a half-mile north of main city, Kingstown, are the vibrant Botanic Gardens, developed in 1765 to grow spices and medicinal plants. Today, the 20-acre spread a sanctuary of fragrant flowers and towering tropical trees. For bird enthusiasts,   an aviary center houses 500 endangered parrots. (The St. Vincent parrot is the national bird.)

Spice it up

Stop by the Kingstown Market for spices, fruits and flowers if you're in town on a Friday or Saturday. Nearby is an 18th-century church. Just outside of town is the old Fort Charlotte, built in 1905 on a hill overlooking St. Vincent Bay, and epic for idyllic Instagram images. 

Eco-sensitive scuba diving

Few know that St. Vincent is also the “Critter Capital of the Caribbean.” Responding in kind, Indigo Dive  has created thoughtful, eco-sensitive excursion for divers of all levels  curious to explore vibrant coral reefs and attendant underwater characters. Along with those ubiquitous sea turtles, excursions bring divers face-to-face with starfish, frogfish and sea horses. Beginning divers can get under the surface on Day 1.  If he’s working that day, ask for Dale to lead your journey down under and tell him Shira sent you.

Shopping

St. Vincent is not St. Barth, but because of the cachet of guests coming to Mustique, Cotton House’s gift shop and nearby boutiques like Pink House have some lovely if overpriced merchandise to splurge on. Sometimes you just need a $80 pair of Havaianas, after all.

Family-friendly options

St. Vincent’s all-inclusive Buccament Bay Resort offers passes for day visitors. With food and drink covered and five restaurants to choose from, the focus turns to the plethora of activities available for all age groups. The resort has an all-weather soccer pitch, cricket and rugby (lest we forget that St. Vincent is a former British colony). To cool off, there are three pools and a wide beach encircling the resort. Eight-hour passes cost $150 for adults and $75 for children.

Best bets for dining

At Basil's Bar, Basil himself recommends his rum-filled sundowner punch, which pairs tastily with the spiced beef, chicken, fish and veggie samosas

• A 10-minute taxi ride from the capital of Kingstown lands the hungry at Villa Beach. After a bite, quickly jet via water skiff to Young Island, which is entirely dominated by the Young Island Resort. Fans of the “Pirates of the Caribbean” franchise may recognize the views, and the bungalows are where Johnny Depp and Orlando Bloom worked, played and slept. (While filming, they notoriously mingled with fellow guests.) Come for lunch and forgo gluten-free dining for the impressive assortment of breads: coconut, banana and the legendary cinnamon swirl.
• When you can still actually meet an island legend, you know the heyday of such a notorious hotspot isn't over. At Basil’s Bar, hang out with Basil, as well as the rich and famous who inevitably stop by the Mustique landmark. Less costly is its Bay Street outpost in Kingstown on St. Vincent island. At either location, the rum-filled sundowner punch pairs tastily with the spiced beef, chicken, fish and veggie samosas.
• St. Vincent isn't known for preparing exceptional cuisine, so it is fortunate that Canouan has the Italian influence to satiate palates. When all else fails, the wood-fire oven at the Tamarind Beach Hotel always delivers yummy pizzas .

Don’t miss

The Cotton House on Mustique is one of only two places to stay unless you’re personally invited to crash in the private homes of Mick, Paul, Tommy Hilfiger, etc. The 17-suite hotel hosts a weekly cocktail party in the Great Room for the entire island, residents and guests alike. Once in, help yourself to an endless supply of champagne and canapes.

YOLO (You only live once!)

While aboard the Captain Yannis catamaran, I proposed an excursion to the skipper beyond the requisite snorkel: I wanted to engage my inner local eater and catch my prey -- hunt-to-table if you will. Armed with snorkel goggles and fins, I slipped underwater spotting white jellyfish, trumpet fish, rays and sea urchins. I braved the dirty work, catching a few prickly urchins, then squeamishly plunged a butter knife into the porcupine-like shell of one. Courageously, I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon and swallowed the sucker raw. 

Best time to go

St. Vincent and the Grenadines rocks nearly perfect weather year round. As this is paradise, assume the weather stays anywhere between 75 and 85 degrees, with wet season in the summer and full hurricane season in fall.

Fun facts

• St. Vincent is the largest of 32 islands in the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines; 9 are inhabited.
• Gifted to Princess Margaret as a wedding present by Lord Glenconner, the 10-acre, 18-mile celebrity-rich haven known as Mustique is homey, with hilly green valleys, soft whites sands and calm, shallow, aquamarine perfection. The permanent population is 300. Real estate includes  gingerbread-style manses and villas. And, milk or cereal aside, the village grocery store knows its customers and prioritizes patés, cheeses, caviar and Moet.
• All three part of the movie "The Pirates of the Caribbean" were shot in St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
• Paparazzi are banned from the island, so be careful who you clandestinely try to take a snapshot of. Better still, don’t take pictures of the fellow guests.

Insider tips

• Roads are not in the greatest condition, not well marked, incredibly dark at night, and can be narrow, winding and steep with no guard rails. 
• There are other islands to check out! Bequia, Mayreau, Palm, and Union Islands are mostly residential but worthy of a jaunt if you have time.

When you arrive

Docking information
Cruise ships moor at the Kingstown Harbor, close to the main town on St. Vincent. Smaller ships moor along Bequia, Mayreau and other Grenadine islands.

Getting around

Rent a car: Driving is on the left. Snag a temporary driver's license for $18.50 (50 East Caribbean Dollars) at the police station on Bay Street or at the Licensing Authority on Halifax Street. On Mustique people drive “mules” or golf carts and motorcycles, which can be rented. Use your horn as you round a sharp curve or make a sharp turn.

Taxis: There are no taxi stands. The government fixes all rates, so verify the fare with the driver prior to departure. A rate sheet is available from the Tourist Bureau Office in the Government Administration Building on Bay Street in Kingstown. Fares increase late at night and in the early morning.

Inter-island flights: SVG Air (tel 457-5124) flies between St Vincent and Bequia, Canouan, Mustique and Union Island. There are smaller airports on Bequia (tel 458-3948 or 458-3984), Canouan (tel 458-8049), Mustique (tel 458-8368) and Union Island (tel 458-8750 or 458-8587), as well as a private airport on Palm Island. SVG’s country code is 784.

Need to know

Documents: U.S. and Canadian citizens need a valid passport.

Language: The official language of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is English. 

Currency: The Eastern Caribbean Dollar is the currency of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. U.S. dollars are accepted as are major credit cards.

Safety: St. Vincent and the Grenadines is a pretty safe place. As always, don’t flash large sums of money or expensive items and take precautions when traveling in remote areas or at night.

Your take

Have you been to St.Vincent and the Grenadines? I'd love to hear a story, tip or discovery. What was the highlight for you? Comment below, share photos or add a story or visual list.

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